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greendefender123
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PostSubject: Cheap Wheel Paint   Tue Jan 06, 2015 5:18 pm

Hello iv got alot of wheels to paint, some for my Land Rover and 2 sets for my x90. They are all fairly rusty. Iknow prepartion is the best thing to help the paint stay on. I used to use hammerite but ran out. So on y fiesta i used up the last of some old black gloss and some chassis paint. Heard new hammerite isnt that good anymore. Any cheap ideas? I was given a couple of tins of primer that i might use. Its only gonna be brushed on. Need to keep the car a little neat as it needs to last. Will be brush painted.

Cheers Steven
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edlithgow
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PostSubject: Re: Cheap Wheel Paint   Sun Jan 18, 2015 2:13 pm

I'd "prime" /rust treat it with some variant of my "treating topsides rust" treatment, as explained in the "tips" section. In that role I'd use beercan aluminium and a power drill.

Then I might paint them with the black bitumen paint sold for cast iron drainpipes. Goes on gloss but dries matt eventually.

Or you could just go straight for that, (or over your primer) since you probably don't have the same commitment to the brilliance of the aluminium self-forming primer idea, as I, as its inventor, naturally do.  

I don't remember that paint showing brush marks badly, but you might try squidging it on with a bit of sponge. If you don't like the bitumen you can remove it at any time with white spirit and rags, which implies that you shouldn't spill petrol on it. Also implies you can "save" brushes even if you let the paint dry on them.

I suppose underseal might also do, but might be a bit lumpier.
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greendefender123
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PostSubject: Re: Cheap Wheel Paint   Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:55 pm

Great thanks il give it ago when the weathers better. Fathers got some white gloss I can use on the weller wheels.
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edlithgow
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PostSubject: Re: Cheap Wheel Paint   Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:21 am

The bitumen paint has the slightly unusual property (as does "electricians varnish") of being reversibly dissolved by solvent, including the solvent in the paint.

This means that you don't have to worry about "keying" a second coat into the old paint when over-painting, but, with brush-painting, you might start to lift the old coat, which might limit the thickness you could build up.

This probably wouldn't be a problem with spraying. I had one of the cheap (Berger?) electrostatic spray guns in the UK but never got around to trying it. For a wheel, which you could lay flat, if you're not much bothered by finish, even a hand plant sprayer might be useful.

I used the stuff on a boat trailer, but didn't keep it long enough to explore over-painting techniques much.

It occurs to me it could be useful as a binder for the "mechanical metallising" technique. When rust spots start to show, you could soften the paint with a bit of white spirit,  buzz on some aluminium "through" the paint as it were, and then touch up with some more paint.

I'd be tempted to re-paint my car (which looks pretty mangy) with it, but here (a) I rather like the mangy "anti-face" look, (b) I'd have to re-register it because of the colour change, involving Chinese form-filling/fee-paying (c) I don't know where to get the paint. (I could probably find bitumen but I don't know if and how it differs), and (d) a mat-black car would get even hotter parked in the sun, and the paint might melt.

If I was still in the UK with a similarly ratty car I'd probably try it.
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