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 This is probably what you should not do - engine mount

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EasternBloc
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Number of posts : 76
Location : Staffordshire
Registration date : 2013-01-08

PostSubject: This is probably what you should not do - engine mount   Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:39 pm

Going back to the previous Favourit. Less than a week before we were supposed to go on holiday the car started making some weird noises. At first I thought it was the exhaust manifold shaking loose but after a bit of investigation I noticed that if the engine was held down, the noise stopped.

Oh – It was the rear engine mounts, the vertical sort with a bar running through. At 18 years of age the rubber was perishing. After a bit of trawling round it was obvious that a 2nd hand ones were starting to show the same signs of wear, the two I could get get to look at that is. Was it worth changing it to have the same problem in a years’ time.   I even tried a main Skoda dealer (  What a Face  ) but that part had become obsolete a year previously.  So apart from getting one in from Eastern Europe I was stuck.

Time to improvise.  I had a spare back box exhaust mount.  Great big thick thing:

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I wondered if I could pack out the mount?  Surely it would last until I got a new one and get us on holiday.  I jacked the engine up slightly on a large slice of wood. Knocked out the loose rubber and stuffed in the thick strips from the mount and let down the engine.

Perfect, no extra noise like before.  Initially I was checking the strips were still in place each week, but after a while I was checking them monthly.   After 10 months they were still there having not moved at all.  Then it was THE END any way.  Never did get a new one either  Smile
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edlithgow
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PostSubject: Re: This is probably what you should not do - engine mount   Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:02 am

My front one was failing in tension (on Skywing, like MkI/II Charade). Its an awkward dog-leg shape so tricky to substitute bits of tyre etc.

I did quite a lot of web-searching and found a fair bit of info about casting your own from RTV silicone. I took notes but I think I lost them when my hard disk failed.

Anyway, I ended up putting superglue on the crack faces as a rather forlorn-hope band-aid, and then, when I could'nt keep the crack closed for the glue to stick, putting lots of cable ties around it to keep it in compression.

I doubt the glue is doing anything, but the cable ties havn'y bust yet. I covered them in boot polish (unfortunately I only had white nylon handy) to be a bit less obvious at inspection time.
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edlithgow
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PostSubject: Re: This is probably what you should not do - engine mount   Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:51 am

Bit more detail (I missed the edit window)

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supergluing, though not with much optimism.

"Do you expect me to torque?"

"No, Mr Bond, I expect you to die"

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I put some cable ties on to close the gap and give the glue a chance, but couldn't keep it aligned properly, so I put a lot more cable ties on to keep it under compression. I suppose I should have gone to the beach and foraged up some commercial monofilament fishing line for a lashing, but no transport.

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Dunno if these mountings are still available, or at what cost.

There is quite a lot of web info on DIY engine mountings, made from eurethane casting resin or silicone, but they mostly seem to be replacing the existing bushing in a "caged" mounting. This mounting is trickier, since the rubber is loaded by engine torque (and is failing) in tension. Might still be possible to cast something if I can get the resin here in Taiwan. Front suspension strut tops look a bit dodgy too, so I could do both at the same time.

Eurethane casting resin is apparently favorite. 3M Window Weld is apparently a slightly less professional substitute

People also apparently make engine mountings from ice hockey pucks, but they'll be hard to find in Taiwan.

I asked the Canadians out there to check their pockets, but they came up empty.
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